Making Sense of Scents

A Review of Other Perfumers' Perfumes

by Canadian Perfumer Lyn Ayre

Skin testing: my skin can really hold a scent as it has balanced ph, so most perfumes will stay with me for several hours. For those of you with dry skin, I suggest using an unscented cream on the skin then apply the perfume. This will help hold and prevent those volatile oils from vanishing into the ether. If your skin is oily or you have problem skin, patch test first.

18September08 Featuring Laurie Stern of Velvet and Sweet Pea

Purrfumery profiles – Velvet and Sweet Pea have shared their samples with me and here’s what I smelled…

Narcissus Poeticus opens with a pungent animalic scent that quickly dries down to the earthy aromas of a love nest. Very unique. I detect some Osmanthus and possibly some myrrh. Still evolving at the one-hour mark. 2 hours later-scent has faded.

Jasmine Dawn & Dusk is fruity and jammy, Jasmine at its best. It’s ascent from my wrist to my nose is speedy and constant. There’s a soft powdery note in the background and bright springtime notes in the foreground. Still evolving at the one-hour mark. 2 hours later-scent is still there. Fading at 3 hours.

Jewellery of Heaven is very floral and sweet. This scent draws me in and makes me want to keep inhaling its heavenly aroma. Wonderful. I detect palma rosa, rosewood or possibly jamarosa – a sharp penetrating top note. Still evolving at the one-hour mark. 2 hours later-scent is still there and wafting up to my nose. Three hours later, still going strong. Finishes very powdery on me.

Honey is amazing. Diffuses nicely, lasts a long time. I love this perfume. It ends up being very sweet and floral on my skin. Still evolving at the one-hour mark. 2 hours later-scent is still there and wafting up to my nose. Three hours later, still going strong. Four hours, very soft now.

Gardenia is not overpowering like the live plant rather pleasingly heady, floral, sweet, and definitely Gardenia. I like it very much. Still evolving at the one-hour mark. 2 hours later-scent is still there and wafting up to my nose. Three hours later, still going strong. Four hours, very soft now.

Songbird is wonderful. I would choose this perfume. I detect cinnamon, vanilla, and orange… almost edible… like a fresh bright tasty Creamsicle. Yummmm. Still evolving at the one-hour mark, 2 hours later-scent is still there and wafting up to my nose. Three hours later, still going strong. Four hours, very soft now.

Terrain Cologne is fresh and clean. I detect perhaps blood orange, geranium, frankincense… still evolving at the one-hour mark. 2 hours later-scent has faded.

I truly enjoyed this foray into the furrows of the perfume feline. Laurie Stern is a true perfumer, crafter, and skilled artisan. Over the last couple of years, I have smelled dozens of perfume samples from other natural perfumers but none has topped these. Her accords are tightly mastered and thrilling to my olfactory organs.

Thank you so very much for sharing your amazing gift, Laurie.

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23October08 Featuring Ambrosia Jones of Perfume By Nature

Natural Perfumer, Ambrosia Jones, shared some of her smelly stuff with me and I was thrilled by it all.

Happiness opens with a lively hit of lime and Cedarwood. Just smelling this makes me smile. It makes me think of days at the beach surrounded by wet rich wood and sipping lemonade. It is aptly named, that’s for sure. Very soft and sweet, a bit spicy. The patchouli is delicious as the scent dries down.

Goddess is a deep oriental smell that diffuses into the air and sweetens the disposition. It gently lifts me up and shifts my energy to a higher plane. I detect garden roses on a warm day, deep scents of the earth, warm top notes like Sol on a bright day. Lovely perfume. Warm and rich, soft citrus notes. Hot almond cakes and tea, a room full of roses, sun streaming in the window, drowsy and time for a nap, an indulgent experience

Love Potion - wafts of coriander, orange, and bergamot gently invade my mind; layer upon layer of tightly woven accords open and reveal themselves like ballerinas flitting across the stage and disappearing behind the curtain, all too soon. The head notes soften into a deep earthy spicy heart of Jasmine and Patchouli – a winning couple who, in the end, steal the show.

Death by Chocolate – a big fudge brownie warm and chewy from the oven, chocolate sauce dripping down ice cream, foil-covered bonbons – fruity centres covered in brown smooth melt-in-your-mouth cocoa butter; choclatey to the end. This is certainly chocolate to live for.

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28April09 - Natural Perfumer, Gabriella Berran, one of my Natural Perfumery students, shared her wonderful samples of natural perfumes with me and I loved them all. Here is the review. Look for her over the next year as she launches her cyber space and all-natural wares.

After the first bright hit of citrus, it quickly settles down into the floral sexiness of Jasmine, Tuberose, and Champa. This rich, complex horizontal accord lasts for several hours. Then sweet Oakmoss, Peru Balsam, and Vanilla go on and on for several more hours. Moonflower is a lovely floral citrus blend that is sweet but not clingy. The deep orange colour is reminiscent of the Sacral Chakra and it truly is a sensual perfume.

Sea Dew begins with a hit of ozone, like the fresh sea air, which marks the opening of this perfume. Lightly floral, ethereal, watery - all good qualities as it dries down to the oceanic notes of seaweed and ambergris. A nice light blend with a nice light colour.

Spellcaster weaves a spicy story of intrigue as it makes its way through the clove/nutmeg and into a spicy rose/champak accord. Over the next few hours, it deepens into the base notes and lovely Vanilla and Sandalwood. Very nice.

The verdant colour of Summer Myst reminds us of the cooling green plants just outside the door. Clary sage, lavender, and bright bergamot, with its saucy flowers, greet you at the gate. Cooling violet leaf and mimosa are refreshing as you tread along the path. Green, leafy and fresh are the keywords for this wonderful perfume that anyone could wear, whether male, female, young or old. A truly ageless scent that ends in smoky notes around the firepit later that evening.

Dig up a licorice root and chew on it as you walk along the path of Tuscany Dreams. Friendly, familiar, floral, a feeling of life being so good, even grand, not a care in the world. This wonderful aroma is soothing and inspiring. The drydown is earthy and balsamic with sandalwood, oakmoss, and vetiver.

‘Snow on the tall forest trees’ would be a poetic phrase to describe Winter Solstice. A clever blend of woods and citrus notes creates an earthy ozonic scent that is very good to smell.

Please note, Gabriella passed away on March 11, 2011. She leaves a gaping hole in the Natural Perfumery world and we all miss her very much.