Coeur d'Esprit Natural Perfumes

Components & Accords  

Flowering Japanese Maple

Documents/Alive Magazine Perfume Interview.pdf

Components and Accords in my Perfumes

Animal essences impart unrivalled depth, strength, and sensuality to any perfume formula. They have been used since ancient times. I use Ambergris, ethically obtained Civet collected from its natural environment, Hyraceum, Honey Beeswax, and non-animalic leather notes such as blonde tobacco, Muhuhu wood, and a leather accord I created. Please know that no animal was experimented on or injured in any way to produce my perfumes. If you do not wish animal essences (Ambergris (water), Hyraceum (earth), or Honey Beeswax (air) in your perfume, simply let me know. As each batch is made fresh, it is no problem at all to make it just right for you.

Floral components add a luscious full body to perfumes. Using myriad combinations of Rose, Jasmine, Carnation, Iris Root, Frangipani, Ylang Ylang, Tuberose, Golden Champa, Geranium, Lavender, Orange Blossom, Linden Blossom, Mimosa, Chamomile, Pink Lotus, Ginger Lily, Exotic Osmanthus, Genet, Neroli, and various accords I’ve created to mimic other flowers such as Honeysuckle, Magnolia, Hyacinth, and Heliotrope, the heart of a perfume is created.

Fruity components lend a yummy juiciness to the perfume formula. I use Davana, Caraway, and various citrus such as Sweet Orange, Tangerine, Bergamot fcf, Lemongrass, Lime, Litsea, and Melissa. The citrus oils used are steam distilled so non-photo toxic and are therefore safe to use on skin that will be exposed to sunlight.  

Spices such as Cinnamon Leaf, Pimento Berry, Turmeric, Anise, Mint, Ginger, Cardamom, Coriander, Black Pepper, Green Pepper, Pink Pepper, White Pepper, Rosemary, Sage, Clove Bud, Allspice tincture, and Clary Sage, and many others, add zest and texture to the scent.  

Tinctures - I’ve read so many times that, if the list of notes of a Natural Perfume include banana, peach, berry, coconut, and so on, it cannot possibly be natural. This is no longer true and I’m here to prove it. I’ve tinctured cucumber, carrots, berries, herbal teas, all kinds of freeze-dried fruit, twigs, leaves, and many other items. Most of them have worked out and increased my palette considerably.

Woods, seeds, grasses, lees, gums, and resins, such as Ambrette Seed, Cabreuva, Cedarwood, Frankincense, Green Cognac, Hay absolute, Labdanum, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Vetiver make up the bulk of the base, grounding the fruits, florals, and spices into Mother Earth once again. Some of these act as an anchor, along with animal essences, to 'fix' the perfume thereby allowing the perfume to last longer and have more lift.

Various accords have also been created to give further personality, charm, and character to the formulation –  smoky, dry, green, fruity, ambery, spicy, musk, leather, powdery – all have their place in the process of creating an aroma that you will love.

Adding the Spiritual dimension      

Once a perfume formula has been created, it is nestled between the Himalayan Healing bowls and toned then put in a cool dark place to mature. Crystals, colours, and sound, along with my intention that this product be for the highest good of the wearer, impart Spiritual energy to my product, which is impossible to duplicate. Everyone who tests and buys my perfumes says they love the energy of it and the way it makes them feel.

This, of course, is what it's all about for me-that my perfumes help you to feel beautiful, alluring, sexy, fun-loving, elegant, and free-spirited. If this is your reaction to my fragrances, then I've done my best for you.

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Please don't worry when people say, 'if you can't pronounce it, it can't be good for you' or 'contains no chemicals'. This is simply not true. Did you know that Rose Oil has over 300 chemical constituents, that we know of? Hundreds more are still not identified.

Everything in nature has chemicals in it. You, me, the wood bookcase over there. The banana I had for a snack. The natural moisturizing cream I used today. Chemicals are not the enemy.

Here's is a chemical profile for one of the new natural essential oils I just purchased from Hermitage Oils in the UK. 

" Pemou (organic) Fokiena Hodginsii (Origin: Vietnam) is also commonly known as Siam wood. The smell is glorious, it is rich, warm, sweet and creamy and as the smell develops I would say it has similarities in smell to the conventional Himalyan and Atlas Cedarwood I often cross with Benzoin and a dash of blood Orange. The major constituents of the oil are fokeinol and nerolidiol accounting for over 70% of the oil. For the perfumer this is a superb fixative which will enable a wide variation of aromas to work well together. Pemou is obtained by steam distillation of the roots and is warm red in colour. Certified Organic

GC/MS % (Gas Chromatographs)

cyclohexane-1-methanol 0.30, o-menth-8-ene 2.79, naphthalene,1,2,3,4.. 0.50, alpha muurolene 0.12, 2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol… 0.33, beta bisabolene 0.18, gamma cadinene 0.23, delta cadinene 0.31, 2,6-dimethyl-1.3.5.7.-octatetetraethene 0.67, 1H-imidazole,1(1-oxopentyl) 0.20, cycloheptane,4-methylene 0.19, alpha farnesene 0.22, elemol 1.88, p-mentha-1,5,8-triene 0.13, spiro[4.5]dec-7-en-6-one 0.14, nerolidiol 30.87, fokeinol 41.52, 9,10-dehydro isolongifolene, 4.65 gamma eudesmol, 2.03 benzene,1,2,4,5-tetramethyl.. 0.37, alpha eudesmol 5.06,santolina triene 0.7,1,3-cyclopentadiene…. 0.63, 2-butanone,4-(2,2,6-trimethyl… 0.43, 2-buten-2-ol…… 0.29, 1,5-hexadiene,2,5-dimethyl 0.81,2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol… 0.34, 1,3,6,10-dodecatetraene… 0.13, trans gamma bisabolene 2.70<  "

An informed customer is a happy consumer.

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